I spent Saturday at two local beach breaks which managed solid consistent 4ft, there were a few diamonds in the round , but not super hollow, but as we know you can easily slot in to the odd hollow one in the prone position. Went home happy after two two hours sessions in what is now getting far to cold for my 3/2 wetsuit (13.3c, windy and no sun)
sunday was shaping up to be special, as the wind was swinging from SE to NE, a rare wind in wales. which give us offshore on our many reef breaks. With in now being british winter time first light is 7 am and last light 5pm, low tide happend to be 6.45 am, so that wrote off all out low tide reef, other than for a first light dawny and somthing that would be swamped out with tide my 8.30sih.
But how ever the conditions were looking good for what I think is easily wales best wave, its a fickle beast, surfable from mid to high, but needing as small a tide as we get to work for long, our rang is 9.8 to 13.4M (yes meters!!) and on sunday we had a 10m woooo tiny tide for us. so that cave us a 3 hour window of surf. So we have swell,good wind and tide.
No the net hurdle is its on a military firing range!!! luckly they don't fire most weekends, but i still don't have a pass for the allowed access days!! so its a jump few fences and not get caught mission.
The waves has a few names, one is the pole as its a pole of rock that goes out to sea about 500 yards, and the other Y-bocs which is welsh for the box as it breaks like the wave of the same name in western Australia.
Anyway we hoped skipped and jumped across and paddled out to 6ft with the odd 8ft set, It was my first time out this winter into my 5/4mm winter suit and its was difficult to get used to,I had waxed my board up a mit extra asi had slipped a bit the day before, but over did it, and the winter wetsuit was more grippy than my summer. So I can say I was not firing on all cylinders, I made a few solid wally 6footers,and tried a few 6ft barrels but could not find an exit on any, nose diving when i could not move my body weight fast enough, my final wave was a few seconds in a dark barrel before i took me out and a trip to reef which I dragged my hands across and gotloadsof tiny paper cuts from, this sent me in, all in all a great day but this time the wave won.
