Ding, ding, ding...

Welcome to a general discussion group on paipo boarding.
User avatar
nomastomas
Big Wave Charger
Posts: 597
Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:30 am
City: Ojai
State or Province: CA
Country: USA
Interests: Surfing, cycling and fishing
Location: Ojai, CA
Contact:

Ding, ding, ding...

#1

Unread post by nomastomas »

Spent an enjoyable morning session today with customer Denny surfing waist-to-chest-high C St. Denny owns a TBG3 and wanted to try out the TBG4, so I loaned him my 48” and rode the 46” loaner I keep (listed for sale on this forum). With the tide rapidly approaching full height, the take-off zone was moving further and further inside. Peaks were moving around, and seemingly popping up out of nowhere. At places, shorebreak was pounding the 45-degree cobblestone/rock berm at the top of the cove. I paddled into a nice set wave but failed to clear a pitching section and got properly “worked”. Upon surfacing my board was nowhere to be found, and the lack of drag on the end of my leash confirmed my worst fears…my board was at the mercy of the waves. I started my short swim in, hoping I could get to the board before it got to the rocks. After a few strokes I recoiled in horror as my ultra-buoyant board flew up into the air and landed with a clatter on the rocks about 2’ above the waterline in front of me.
The top of the cove is a miniature point, where the rip-rap is piled 6’-8’ above the waterline. The current accelerates around this point, especially at high-tide when water running off the beach to the north follows the path of least resistance, down into the cove. Foolishly I thought I could swim to my board before any serious damage occurred. But I could feel myself being quickly dragged past my board, and all I could do was watch helplessly as the next set exploded over the rocks, launching my board even higher up the berm, from where it clattered down the rocks, only to be re-launched by the next surge. Finally, after a particularly big set, it came to rest between two jagged boulders about 6’ above the waterline. As for me, I was indeed close enough to hear the horrific scraping noise of fiberglass and fins against the rocks, but I was now trapped in a minefield of submerged, knee-high boulders, getting pummeled by shorebreak and whitewater, while simultaneously being dragged down the beach. I struggled to get my swim fins off, and in the process I too got pushed, higher and higher up the berm. Finally, with fins in one hand, I clamored on all fours like a helpless rock crab, up the berm to relative safety (not a particularly graceful exit). I then had to climb down to where my board was perched to retrieve it. The corner of the nose took the most damage, an open wound exposing the beady foam. But there was a sizeable “cruncher” on the deck as well, along with a handful of nicks and scratches.

Board will be patched-up by my glasser, and returned to service, price to be adjusted accordingly. The failure point was the cord attaching the leash to the board. I have been using 4mm para-cord for this purpose on all my boards, including my longboards, without a single failure. It’s very possible that I grabbed something in the shop that looked like para-cord, but wasn’t. Lesson learned…
Attachments
Ding.jpg
Ding.jpg (16.11 KiB) Viewed 1495 times
"This is a paipo site...isn't it?"
www.tp4surf.com
Nels
Big Wave Charger
Posts: 254
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:58 pm
City: Camarillo
State or Province: California
Country: USA

Re: Ding, ding, ding...

#2

Unread post by Nels »

Ah, the glories of the point. Spent about a decade surfing there all the time, knew which pieces of concrete rip rap had the rebar sticking out...a handy thing at higher tides. Rockdancing down to save others boards...don't know if anybody would do that these days, at least if they would for strangers. Hated using a leash, even there, but that shoreline obviously cried out to early-adopters. I went to softboard technology but that stalled out pretty quick. Moved on to more conducive spots. Leash = crowds, simple societal math. When the other places eventually filled up I predominately abandoned standup equipment and stretched out for comfort. It kept filling up there, but it's still a Place of Dreams for me...

Nels
User avatar
bgreen
Big Wave Charger
Posts: 1232
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 5:17 pm
City: Brisbane
State or Province: Qld
Country: Oz
Contact:

Re: Ding, ding, ding...

#3

Unread post by bgreen »

Bummer. Sounds like Lennox Head. Getting in and out can be sketchy.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests