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Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:53 pm
Saw this video recently has a load of great slow-motion video, very interesting to watch rider leg/swimfin positions and also board angles of attack and body position on boards.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_eKVA5 ... ture=share
Re: slowmo video
Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:23 pm
Great stuff...really amazing. Clearly shows the benefit of finless riding in hollow waves. I have found that , with fins, I have to battle being drawn up the face to the lip. Not the case in slope-y waves, regardless of size. In those waves, fins are a definite advantage for moving up the face. Not saying that riding finless makes it impossible to surf up the face of a slopey wave, also not saying a finned board can't ride low on the face. When driving nails, a hammer is a better tool than a pipe wrench, but you can still drive a nail with a pipe wrench. The other thing I noticed was that 80% of the time, riders had their legs in the water. Here again, wave condition dictates technique. On finless boards, fast, powerful waves demand dragging legs for control, both for turning and stalling, The drag created by fins, serves this purpose, but requires the correct size fins for the wave condition. Lastly, I would never intentionally launch an aerial maneuver on anything but a soft prone-board. I shudder to think of the consequences of falling 5-6ft and landing on my G5.