Re-shape

What works and what doesn't. Share design ideas, references and contacts for paipo board builders.
jomo51
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Re-shape

#1

Unread post by jomo51 »

I wonder if there's a lightweight and waterproof material out there that would lend itself to re-shaping an existing board.

I got a board from a respected local shaper and it plain didn't work. Tried many different fin combinations but there were problems.

We went back and took nearly 2" out of the middle to make it narrower. Improved, but not great.

I re-shaped the tail (squash to 'moon') and at the same time created a vee shaped channel between the fins in the last 16".

I tried several fin combinations and the board worked much better. But with any size, combined with chop, the board bucked. It hopped, it chattered and my rides were basically holding on. Smaller cleaner waves were good.

Now I've created some Vee outside the fins in the last 8 or 9". Now there's some rocker in the rail and the high lift single concave is much reduced in the tail. Waiting to glass and try again.

This would all be easier if there was a material that was lightweight, waterproof, didn't need glassing. Seems possible. Maybe wood? Which species??
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Re: Re-shape

#2

Unread post by bgreen »

Just too be clear,
"But with any size, combined with chop, the board bucked. It hopped, it chattered and my rides were basically holding on."

If you mean, you are going fast and the board starts skipping like a stone over water, then welcome you are going to find over time. On a stand-up board, the feet act more like shcck absorbers. There has been a few discussions on the forum regarding how you might reduce this effect.

Speed + chop is a tricky combination.

You can reshape wood, but I think the basic issue is getting a well designed board from the start. If you are wanting to shape yourself, you could post ideas here or Swaylocks.

Bob
jomo51
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Re: Re-shape

#3

Unread post by jomo51 »

Yeah, I’ve thought about the lack of shock absorbing while prone, and heard that epoxy is worse than polyurethane. Shape will be the biggest factor. I’m leery of single concave, but love the speed. Ocean going tankers feature a bulb projecting ahead of the bow below waterline. It’s been around for over a century, provides better fuel economy and, maybe, some mitigation of ‘bucking’ in heavy seas. I won’t be attempting to reshape the current board to have belly in the nose, but adding a bulb to the bottom near the nose wouldn’t be difficult. The board’s already a Frankenstein, may as well try some unconventional modifications.
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Re: Re-shape

#4

Unread post by Poobah »

The cork blanks from California Surfcraft are no longer available, but part of the appeal was that you could change the shape, vacuum off the dust, and then head for the waves. As I recall, he used an aerospace or airplane grade of cork that was shipped over from Portugal. He laminated the layers with glass and epoxy resin. I don't know of anyone doing something similar.

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Re: Re-shape

#5

Unread post by jomo51 »

That would be fun.
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Re: Re-shape

#6

Unread post by bgreen »

The hop: https://youtu.be/mAp48UqnizI

Paulownia is pretty standard, doesn't need glassing. A wood board is obviously very different to a foam one to ride. Ryan Byrch rode unglassed slabs of foam.

https://laundrysurfer.wordpress.com/lord-board/
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Re: Re-shape

#7

Unread post by krusher74 »

it would be helpful to see pictures of the board from several different angles and know the dimensions. and rider height weight

I have never experienced this bucking, hopping or chattering on any boards i have ridden unless in extreme devil wind, and in those conditions, no design would get rid of it.

I have single concave on my boards and find it very smooth.

It may also be in part how you ride the board, i drive the rail with my shoulder and hip and the shoulder becomes a knee to shock absorb. if you are mostly on your belly you will have less shock-absorbing ability.

If you could also get a video of you riding one wave that would help.
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Re: Re-shape

#8

Unread post by rodndtube »

I've often thought of how to handle high-speed waves with some cross chop. Skimming from peak to peak of a little bit of cross-swell is challenging. Up to moderate sea state (chop style), but not high seas, hydrofoils and bi-/tri-hulls are sometimes used. Boats have bows (v-bottom fronts/nose areas) and usually some measure of v-hull throughout but often flattening out towards the rear. All this leads me to a somewhat abrupt v-hull up in the nose area, not the gently round bottoms one normally sees in a board.
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Re: Re-shape

#9

Unread post by krusher74 »

rodndtube wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 11:08 pm I've often thought of how to handle high-speed waves with some cross chop. Skimming from peak to peak of a little bit of cross-swell is challenging. Up to moderate sea state (chop style), but not high seas, hydrofoils and bi-/tri-hulls are sometimes used. Boats have bows (v-bottom fronts/nose areas) and usually some measure of v-hull throughout but often flattening out towards the rear. All this leads me to a somewhat abrupt v-hull up in the nose area, not the gently round bottoms one normally sees in a board.
As far as I understand a V hull on a boat is constantly cutting through the water and never up on plane like a surfboard, so it would cut down on skipping because it was never fully out of the water on plane and skip. But i would think it would then be very slow more like riding a kayak across a wave.
The worst skipping i have seen on video is greennough on his spoon, I think the extreme nose belly just launchs that thing off every bit of chop it hits.

the ultimate prone board for chop is a mat as the soft bottom just moulds around the chop and absorbs it, instead of a hard surface that hit chop and it projected up by it.
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Re: Re-shape

#10

Unread post by rodndtube »

In this instance I could give up a little bit of speed for a little less skipping. I already wear lacrosse rib protectors at this one place I surf! A matt, other than trying to learn how to ride one, isn't real great in big surf.
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Re: Re-shape

#11

Unread post by krusher74 »

rodndtube wrote: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:07 am I already wear a lacrosse rib protectors at this one place I surf!
That must be some extreme skipping or you must surf a lot more on your belly/ribs than I do, I have never experienced anything that extreme that would need chest protection in all my time surfing. Are you leaving the water surface or just going across heavy chatter?
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Re: Re-shape

#12

Unread post by rodndtube »

krusher74 wrote: Wed Feb 10, 2021 5:34 am
rodndtube wrote: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:07 am I already wear a lacrosse rib protectors at this one place I surf!
That must be some extreme skipping or you must surf a lot more on your belly/ribs than I do, I have never experienced anything that extreme that would need chest protection in all my time surfing. Are you leaving the water surface or just going across heavy chatter?
Maybe a little bit of both. More than anything it is on the drops at one of the breaks in the cove. It can be a double whammy lip breaking over due to two lines of lava rocks about 20 yds apart and the board and I can become separated but the lip throws you down onto the board. Cracked a couple of ribs one time!
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Re: Re-shape

#13

Unread post by krusher74 »

rodndtube wrote: Wed Feb 10, 2021 10:59 am
krusher74 wrote: Wed Feb 10, 2021 5:34 am
rodndtube wrote: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:07 am I already wear a lacrosse rib protectors at this one place I surf!
That must be some extreme skipping or you must surf a lot more on your belly/ribs than I do, I have never experienced anything that extreme that would need chest protection in all my time surfing. Are you leaving the water surface or just going across heavy chatter?
Maybe a little bit of both. More than anything it is on the drops at one of the breaks in the cove. It can be a double whammy lip breaking over due to two lines of lava rocks about 20 yds apart and the board and I can become separated but the lip throws you down onto the board. Cracked a couple of ribs one time!
that's an extremely late take off if you are airdropping and the lip is hitting you in the back, are you them making the face on that kinda takeoff?
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Re: Re-shape

#14

Unread post by rodndtube »

Oh yeah!!! Not always an air drop, of course, but very steep. Usually a nice wall to work with. The lip is hitting you with a rolling surge of water... the results vary. Various elements of where in the tidal change, how much tidal change, swell direction, period, etc. I'll ride this spot but you won't catch me out at the Wedge or other shore Dumps.
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