Well it seems that the jet stream has got super charged with flight that have a minimum time from new york to london of 6 hours making it in 5H 17Ms
Anyway that has meant a constant track of deep lows heading towards the UK (must mostly riding up and over ireland and scotland) while ireland is seeing 50/60ft seas down here in wales were still get swell bleeds round the bottom of ireland in the 15ft range, unfortunatly they mostley come with 25 to 60mph onshore /crossshore winds, which means we have to hide in little sheltered coves that the swell struggles to bend into, and out of all this we usually end up on waist to should high waves
Well here are a few pics of the different places i have surfed since Christmas.
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We have a nice few rocky point breaks that work on the huge storms, this place is perfect for a paipo as you end up riding the pocket 5/10ft fron the rocks, the stand up surfers dont really like getting in that close and it fat on the shoulder, but on a paipo/bodyboard, you can sit in a perfect little barrel/curl on a prone board here when its waist high, and get a full ride from start to beach taking 60 secs.
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Rare boulder point thats along ride but a little fat, 500yards will do the trick though.
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we have a lot of slab rock in certain areas of coast and will a big swell waves does there best point break impression, here a 30mph cross offshore is fighting it, had to find the wave thats clean, but big enough to actually surf.
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This is a beach i have never surfed in 21 years of surfing, it take a big swell and rare winds to get even this clean.
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This surf was not a storm day, its to illustrate the huge tides we have here of up to 40ft, this picture is 2 hours before low, and at high the waves will be up where you see the dry sand in the foreground.
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Here is a small cove that with the aid of the wedge effect help it be clean in storms and bump a waist high wave to a over head wedge. After destroting my SDF paipo on rocks the day before, I was out on my endeavour board, with its extra volume its hard to handle in waves like this. In this shot im hard on the breaks trying to stop the wedge forcing me out of that pocket.
Sounds like you are in the market for a new board. Some interesting waves, which look more like those from another continent. How does your board go in those long lined, fattish type waves?
I still prefer my first SDF board in pretty much all condictions, the extra volume in the Endeavour does help to catch waves a big earlier like a longboard, but once on the waves it seems slower on a fat wave, I think we just did not take the concave far enough forward. But its perfectly functional.
I have some paulownia (which should have arrived last friday) on order to make as close as I can manage a copy of SDF no1 in wood. Looking forward to the challenge .
Nice shots dose Dave ride, how cold is it can a tropical species like me survive there.You are always in the slot, good camera men like that are hard to find
CHRISPI wrote:Nice shots dose Dave ride, how cold is it can a tropical species like me survive there.You are always in the slot, good camera men like that are hard to find
Dave does stand up surf from time to time.
We are lucky to have a few hardcore local photogs, should have some other pics on the way soon.
its 7.8C in the water now , spring is here, i have taken my hood and gloves off, 5/3 wetsuit and 5mm boots, pretty dam cold even though i am used to it.
Thanks for sharing this.Looks like you live in a great place for uncrowded waves. I look forward to more. I guess I'll have to tote my gear along when I finally visit Scotland and Ireland.
Is there a rock shelf or something that makes that end section stand up? It won't be too long until I get to do a bit of Welsh exploring.
Bob
its all rock reef, and as you said there is a little slab of flat rock that makes this wave barrel, its a very short wave and if not barreling not worth surfing. our swell magnet of the area, and cant hold over 4ft as outer reefs start to cloudbreak and rumble though.
ClanB wrote:Thanks for sharing this.Looks like you live in a great place for uncrowded waves. I look forward to more. I guess I'll have to tote my gear along when I finally visit Scotland and Ireland.
Dave is a good photog at cutting people out, there are about 10 people out back you cant see in the pics, there are plenty of surfers round here as i live in a city of 300,000 people, never socal crowded though.
ireland and scotland are a lot quieter, if you need info on a waves for a trip send me a message
And a few emptys I took for you guys today.
The pics of me surfing are on non of these waves.
This is a 5 mile stretch of rocky shore we on the peninsula near my city we call "the reefs"
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what a beautiful country you live in
Man those pictures are fine but that water looks pretty darn cold-- I admire you suiting down to a 5mm
Here in the Med we ware those 5 mills in the coldest of the winter months -- february
But then again cold is only relative to where you live
Thank God I was lucky enough to escape our Feb and head out to Baja Mx-- to test out my two new Thomas paipo's
Keep on surfing bro
North of La Spezia
Home break is Andora -province of Savona west of la Spezia- first guy to ever surf that beach when Italians did NOT even have a clue on what this sport was about
However now I am exploring south of Siena/Grosseto area for more "Med-Madness"
Funny Fickle sea the Med
Bob if you ever want to get away from your extreme "nordic" weather you let me know and I'll shack you out for a few nights
By the way best time Med Time is fall and spring surfing time
Dave
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