Pointbreak paipo video.

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krusher74
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Pointbreak paipo video.

#1

Unread post by krusher74 »

Pointbreak paipo video.

As my friend Malcolm was out of the water for a knee operation I dragged him along as a cameraman. He did a great job for first time filming only using my old panasonic lumix camera and a mono pod. Thanks to him for standing out in the cold with a recovering knee.

Anyway, I am riding two of my boards in the video. In the first half i'm on what I call my "fish" which is 25l wide point further forward, wider and rounded surfboard rail. The wave we kinda fat for the start of the session with alot of chop and flat spots to get over.

The second half of the surf the tide came in and got up on the rock ledges better making for a steeper pockety wave, so I then got on the my 23L more performance shape.

Both are finless, you can see in several waves where I get slowed by the white water pushing me sideways, maybe fins would drive me better through those sections, but as you can see I like doing spins and fins get in the way of that.

All feedback gratefully received. :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO3cPlQP3Cs
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nomastomas
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#2

Unread post by nomastomas »

That was great! Very enjoyable viewing. Looked like you were having fun despite the conditions. Perfect example of the benefits of prone riding vs. stand-up riding in marginal conditions. I noticed that you ride in a very forward position. Where does the tailblock hit your thighs when you're that far forward? I also noticed that there were times when you disappeared into the foam ball and then a few seconds later popped out. Are you kicking to pop back out?
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krusher74
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#3

Unread post by krusher74 »

nomastomas wrote:That was great! Very enjoyable viewing. Looked like you were having fun despite the conditions. Perfect example of the benefits of prone riding vs. stand-up riding in marginal conditions. I noticed that you ride in a very forward position. Where does the tailblock hit your thighs when you're that far forward? I also noticed that there were times when you disappeared into the foam ball and then a few seconds later popped out. Are you kicking to pop back out?
When trying to keep speed and fully forward the tailblock in closer to my knee than my hip, though bottom turn i slide back and have the tail block on my upper thigh near groin level.

I never kick on a wave in less it's a very flat/fat section i'm trying to keep going on that might be about to pick up again, The technique on the collapsed barrels it to stay high and tight and try to just keep driving weight through the rail. It kind of a keep harnessing the energy of the collapsing wave and use it to push forward.

On one wave you will also see me lift my flippers and legs up, this is when i know a closing out section will hit my legs and blow me into a slide, I lean hard into the rail and avoid my legs being hit and try to keep gliding, with fins I dont think this would be so necessary.
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#4

Unread post by bgreen »

Keith,

The finless board would have come in handy as you got close to those inside rocks. Did the wave have much power? If not, it looked like it could have been a difficult wave to get enough speed to get through the first section. The boar certainly planed well. The higher tide certainly looked like it opened up opportunities for more turns. It was interesting to see the bodyboarding style used to keep you in the pocket. The short board cantilever style was very evident in places. Something for the more athletic.

I didn't notice much difference in how the boards went, more the wave changed. The feeling no doubt was different. Malcolm did well - especially since it looked cold.

Was this a spot we drove past near the end of the road?

Bob
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krusher74
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#5

Unread post by krusher74 »

bgreen wrote:Keith,

The finless board would have come in handy as you got close to those inside rocks. Did the wave have much power? If not, it looked like it could have been a difficult wave to get enough speed to get through the first section. The boar certainly planed well. The higher tide certainly looked like it opened up opportunities for more turns. It was interesting to see the bodyboarding style used to keep you in the pocket. The short board cantilever style was very evident in places. Something for the more athletic.

I didn't notice much difference in how the boards went, more the wave changed. The feeling no doubt was different. Malcolm did well - especially since it looked cold.

Was this a spot we drove past near the end of the road?

Bob
Most of the waves I am taking off half way down the point, there is a rocky section that's hard to get past half way along so I was just taking off just past there. I would say the wave isnt very powerful, I use a lot of core strength to brace and keep planing through slow fat sections on this wave to the point I have felt like i have done 200 sit-ups the next day.

In the first half the waves were fatter and its only the fact I was on the larger volume board that I was able to make it along many of them. Effort wise the bigger mboard is like cruising a van, the small board ripping round in a sports car.
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#6

Unread post by Nels »

Nice footage! That wave at those sizes with no crowd... looked perfect for a higher volume mega platter type board. I could get lost in that scenario for a good long while...

Nels
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#7

Unread post by Uncle Grumpy »

Despite the conditions that looks like a pretty fun wave and just right for kipapa style.
A mat would really excel in that windy stuff, glide ya right over the flat spots.
Just how cold is it BTW?
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Re: Pointbreak paipo video.

#8

Unread post by krusher74 »

Uncle Grumpy wrote:Despite the conditions that looks like a pretty fun wave and just right for kipapa style.
A mat would really excel in that windy stuff, glide ya right over the flat spots.
Just how cold is it BTW?
Anywhere between 45 to 55 thought the winter when this place gets waves, its colder with the wind and lack of sun too.

That's pretty clean conditions for wales, look how windy it was yesterday!!
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