Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

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bgreen
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Re: Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

#11

Unread post by bgreen »

It's not like it was when I was 16 but I still score the odd uncrowded wave or two. Just last week-end I lucked onto a well known rock lined point. The crew was surfing the inside. The tide was dropping so I headed to the outside peak - had about 40 minutes until the crew joined me.

The reliance on surf forecasts, means that when they get it wrong (the models have some blind spots especially about mis-timing swell arrival or dropping off) you can get lucky. There may not be classic discoveries but we have a big coastline and a population of 23 million. There are less popular spots and those days when you get lucky. A paipo board also opens up opportunities but some days you are well down the pecking order.

Before the year is out, I am taking one expensive trip (a 60th present) and a low budget trip to an island with more sheep than people.

Sharks have done a bit to reduce crowds around here.

Not quite time to pack it up.
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Re: Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

#12

Unread post by Nels »

The 2015 stat for population of the "Greater Los Angeles Area", encompassing 5 counties from Ventura County where I live to the Inland Empire counties...approximately 19 million. Ventura County, Santa Barbara County, and Los Angeles County population combined is thought to be about 11 million people. Figure that's the total population who surf from L.A. to the Ranch. Santa Barbara doesn't really get surf in the summer, so they have to drive north or south for waves. Booga booga! It's chaos!

In 1978 I spent some time camping in the caravan park in Coolanlgatta, walked to Greenmount and Rainbow for surf. One of the great experiences of my life. I'm told it's no longer worth the trip :shock:

Did love the 2 islands of sheep "across the way".

I "get mine" these days in an almost random manner, ready for anything, once in a blue moon snag a good morning in out of the way nooks...a far cry from days of premier point breaks, people-free weekdays, and the influence of tech...

Nels
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bgreen
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Re: Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

#13

Unread post by bgreen »

Nels,

For lots (and lots) of people that walk is still worth it. Did a week-end trip further south, stopped off at Rainbow on the way home but didn't go out. If I had caught a wave I reckon I would just have got dropped in on. A few times a year I go out. Sometimes Coolangatta beach can have good waves that don't pull the same crowd as the points. There are two scenarios to get the occasional decent one. The points get horror sweeps that are near impossible to paddle against. With luck and timing you might pick up a wave. Sitting in the impact zone on a low float board got me a nice set one day. But that is a strategy I use sometimes - everyone paddles for the shoulder when a bigger set comes though, sometimes I'll paddle further inside hoping for a smaller one behind. This strategy doesn't always work. If the points are a clean 3-4 with no cleanup sets this is the worst scenario. The superbank publicity did a lot to overcrowd already crowded surf.

Understand our friends from the land of the long white cloud don't post much. A very underrated destination.

If I had the resources and talent I'd get a boat.
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Re: Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

#14

Unread post by belly rider »

COULDN'T AGREE MORE WITH GREEN
The land of the long white cloud-- New Zealand that is for those that don't know it
Been there back in 1985 and traveled every inch of that country for 9 months
GREAT GREAT surf uncrowded and friendly natives -- at least back then
Two oceans two coasts to choose waves from -- miles of empty beaches in both Islands (Southern and Norther)
Man what memories-- forget that wave pool stuff

I can foresee the situation 20 years from now -- stances, pool side, people eating popcorn and drinks while in the arena gladiators are
fighting for some world title -- difference is they get to ride their true boards
Us common folks will have to pay to ride some sponge semi rigid board that we will have to rent-- there won't be a choice for kneelos
Rules and regulations will govern these wave pools with a bunch of lifeguards whistling away every time we screw up
NA NA NA
i'll take crowds and stay in the corner/shoulder ride it small and short before i go wave pooling
its all about the ride
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Re: Uh-oh Kelly Slater better look out--warm water too!

#15

Unread post by Atlantasurfer »

Florida surf report.jpg
Florida surf report.jpg (31.7 KiB) Viewed 4468 times
There is still uncrowded surf in Florida. Here is a pic from today's surf report at my normal spot. I wish I was there, but I'm in Georgia earning a living...

In August I scored some fantastic tropical storm waves. Because we were not at a marquee spot, me and my friends had the peak to ourselves. Summer is usually terrible, but storm season is sweet.

The downside is that you end up in Florida, one of the most culturally backwards places in the U.S.!
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