First Paipo Build- Tips?

[scrapster]

Hey Everyone,

I'm about to dive in and build my first paipo! (It will also be my first serious woodworking project since building skateboard ramps as a kid.) My plans are for a simple, vertically laminated, flat bottomed board (45"x17"x1/2") of basswood, cedar and local tulip poplar. I'm pretty excited to get going, but I already see potential issues on the horizon. If anyone has the time or inclination to weigh in on one of the following questions, it would be much appreciated!:

1. I was planning on using T800 epoxy for joining, but I now realize that starting with finished-thickness 1/2" lumber leaves little room for error in terms of sanding/grinding down adhesive that squeezes up through the cracks. Any thoughts? Would a water-based (Tightbond-type) glue be easier to work with?

2. Since I'm about to head out to Woodcrafts to do some shopping, what tools do you use for shaping the rails, and in what order? I have an orbital sander. I imagine some files and rasps are in my future.

I'll continue to poke around the old Rodntube site for archived expertise as well. Thanks in advance!

[Uncle Grumpy]

Welcome Aboard!
Stay away from the poplar unless you plan on glassing, it's prone to rot. Stick with the basswood and cedar.
Some folks like titebond but I won't use it unless I'm glassing..........
If you wait until the glue gels it's very easy to scrape off. When it gets to that point, with the clamps on it you can lift the whole thing to get at both sides.
Epoxy does not need or even want heavy clamp pressure; Put a caul between your clamps and make sure you use enough glue to get a bit of squeeze out.

I highly recommend the Shinto File Rasp
The one with the handle is more versatile.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family/2082430 ... rasps.aspx

Learn how to sharpen and use a card scraper. It will save lots of sanding and sandpaper.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200025 ... thick.aspx
Lots of instructional videos on youtube.

[scrapster]

Good stuff. Thanks! Looks like I have some decisions to make regarding glue or epoxy as well as wood selection. Unfortunately, my main piece of basswood just arrived and it has a bow to it as well as unfinished edges--my workload just increased if I still want to use it. I'm surprised that with the significant forest products industry around me, appropriate "craft woods" are hard to come by. Outside of poplar, it's pretty much cedar and redwood in terms of light weight choices. Oh well, the learning process begins...

[scrapster]

Okay, I loaded up on lumber to play with. Looks like it will either be: 1.) a wide Doug Fir center board surrounded by red cedar (with some nice color variations), or 2.) a 3.5" mahogany stringer surrounded by cedar. I've read that Doug Fir has good flex strength, but I'm guessing I'd have to epoxy or varnish the board if I go that route, whereas I might be able to get away with linseed or some other oil if I go for option #2. Am I right on that?

PS I also picked up the scraper and Shinto file. That file is a good looking tool! My spending spree is now over though

[Uncle Grumpy]

Doug Fir will do fine with just oil or boat sauce on it.

[scrapster]

Perfect. I just laid out the boards tonight---it's a beautiful combo. Uncle Grumpy, I saw you have symbols/graphics on some of your boards (like that narrow 5'2"). What technique do you use, if you don't mind me asking?

[Uncle Grumpy]

I do the layout with graphite paper and use a cheap little woodburner set.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... te=ROCKLER

[scrapster]

So, just spoke with a woodworker friend of mine who definitely had his own ideas as to how this should be built. Should I spring my joints?

[Uncle Grumpy]

Depends on which adhesive you use to hold it together...........

[scrapster]

Well, I was planning on using T800 epoxy,though I also have Gorilla Glue and Tightbond III. I was leaning toward epoxy so I could just use oil on the board afterward.

[Uncle Grumpy]

No need to spring joints w/ epoxy.
IMNSFHO Best joint is one that is new, arrow straight, square, knife cut and without defect, including being sprung.
The purpose of any "sprung joint" is to insure that the ends of panels do not open up during the glue/clamp process. Unless stock contains excess moisture that will allow it to shrink faster at the ends after the glue-up, there should be no problem with gluing up perfectly straight-edged stock.
Springing joints is old fashioned; like for big table tops done with hide glue.

[scrapster]

Good to know. Thanks! Unfortunately, my lumber is a few hairs off from being perfectly straight-edged. My friend may have a jointer I can use. Otherwise, I'm going to get a lot more familiar with my planer very soon. (I've been told I need to properly tune it up before I use it for a real job--other than planing down doors.)

[Uncle Grumpy]

That is just one of the many reasons to use epoxy; unlike most other glues, it fills gaps well, with no loss of strength.
You can glue up right off the saw.....