MyPaipoBoards Forums

I just test rode my board with my new deck pad for the second time today. The pad is 3/16" thick. It works great with plenty of grip. No need for wax. It felt pretty good. But it definitely adds float to the board . Casey from Covepads.com told me that he don't notice added float on kneeboards. But those boards are around 6 feet and the pad isn't as big. So the relative increase in volume is less than it is on a small paipo. So now this board doesn't duck dive as well. I plan on using this board on point breaks and where there isn't alot of duck diving.

I am building a new board right now. It is alot thinner about 1 7/8". (I kind of goofed. I used an electric planner on a foam board for the first time.) I am making it thinner so I can add pad on that board and get less float. I don't think it is a good idea to add a pad as an afterthought. You have to design the board with the idea of putting a pad on it. He also makes 5/16" pads. I am not sure which one I' ll use next.


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I've also got one on one of mine, i really like it, yes it probably adds a bit of float - i don't really know having put the pad on before its maiden voyage.But i think in my case its more to do with the boards nose holding as much volume as a longboard . I've found it a great pad and certainly far superior to the camping mat one i made. great grip and cushioning. I'll be buying again

Any idea how these deck pads interact with just a rash guard and baggies? Looks like I would trim at least an inch more around the rails.

JBW, how long and wide is the board pictured above?

I think it would work just fine with a rash guard and shorts. The pad is an inch inside the outline of the board (as traced on a piece of paper). I was worried about the pad being that close, but that is what Casey recommends. So far I don't I haven't buried the rail deep enough for it to be a problem. I don't know if boards actually bury that deep anyway. I think the water pressure from below keeps that part of the board out the water and rides on top of the water instead of inside it. We will see, when I ride some more tubular waves.

I am more concerned about this issue with my new board, which will be about 3/8-1/2 inch thinner and with thinner rails. I am shaping the rails this weekend. I'll have to talk with him.

The board in the photo is about 21 1/2 inches wide by 52 inches long by about 3/8 to 1/2 " thick.

Very nice! Looks really cool. Great insight about thinking everything through before building. I learned to only reduce thickness to within 1/8" with the power planer. You'll loose at least that much hand-finishing.

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I really need a planner lesson. I made the nose a little too thin. It is hard to do the deck foil on a square block of foam. It will still be pretty good. Luckily each blank only costs about $18.00.












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I shape my bottom first, getting the rocker I want, and then bring the deck down to the desired thickness. Leave about 1/2" of thickness at the very tip. This will be rounded off, 1/4 round from the bottom and 1/4 round from the deck. On a belly board, I would use a 24"x 3.5" sanding block with 40g paper(basically a 2x4 with a sanding belt glued on the bottom). You get that last 12" of rocker curve by making 4, full-width passes with the block; first pass from 12" up, second pass from 9", third pass from 6" and last pass from 3". Repeat until you have the desired curve. Using a power planer requires a specific technique that is too hard to describe and is best demonstrated. You might be able to find a video on the web. Back to Cove Pads!