New board

What works and what doesn't. Share design ideas, references and contacts for paipo board builders.
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bgreen
Big Wave Charger
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Re: New board

#11

Unread post by bgreen »

Krusher,

Last week-end I surfed the board in some reasonable waves.

I had two experiences which highlighted the limits of finless surfing - one was retrievable and no big deal the other was a wipeout.

In scenario one, I caught a hollow peak, got tubed and as I came out the wave got really full. The tail slid. I regained control but the wave was over. Dealing with transition was the issue - if I'd been quicker, I could possibly have adjusted my weight, but it all happened pretty quick.

Scenario 2 was at a solid pointbreak. The board was handling some steep drops and riding well. One bigger wave had a whitewater section. It caught me as I tried to get around it. In the foam there was no resistance and it was all over. A finned board would have been able to project around the whitewater, whereas I just lost speed in it.

No fin(s) mean less drag, but also less control. If you don't mind having less control and the occasional edge loss, this board rides great finless. One day I'll ride it with fins. This style of board has concaves, wings and some hard edges. There is the risk, fins may conflict with these features. I've ridden a flat bottom, low rocker version of this board and it is great finless. While it handled steep faces and drops it wasn't a tube rider.

Fins allow for tighter arcs in turns.

Your boards are shorter, so the dynamics will be different and you'll be more in-the-wave.

It's all a trade-off. My boards can be ridden both ways. The shaper likes the idea of finless boards so makes my boards with the idea of finless & finned in mind. At this stage I don't have any new ideas/thoughts about a future direction though I liked the look of these Friar Tuck kneeboards by Peter Ware.
FriarTuck3.jpg
FriarTuck.jpg
The idea of flex in the rails also has appeal, like the Peter Berry board I posted elsewhere.

Bob
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krusher74
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Re: New board

#12

Unread post by krusher74 »

If your board has a hardrail I would suggest sanding it off. I tried the finless hard edge and it was very easy the loose the rail. I knocked off the hard edge to a 1/8" round over and the grip that it then produced made a night and day hold difference. I only have a hard edge on the back of my boards.

What's the hull of the friar like?
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