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Re: Need Advice on Build

Unread postPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 4:05 pm
by zensuni
Atlantasurfer and uncle grumpy, do you have some videos of your long narrow wooden boards in action ?

Re: Need Advice on Build

Unread postPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 4:31 pm
by bgreen

Re: Need Advice on Build

Unread postPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 9:46 am
by Uncle Grumpy
zensuni wrote:Atlantasurfer and uncle grumpy, do you have some videos of your long narrow wooden boards in action ?


None that I know of.
Chatting with Tom Wegener at the Sacred Craft show many years back was what got me on the alaia path.
Here's a short video of Tom riding one in some small crumbly surf that will give an idea of how they go kipapa style.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw0vSU8Do-M

Re: Need Advice on Build

Unread postPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 2:11 am
by krusher74
Why dont you get some fins and try them on your 45" board. i have come from a Bodyboard back ground and now ride finless paipos. I found personally little i like about having fins, they did grip and help you get past a mush section. but for the drawbacks i found from them, i just prefer to be without them.

try some.

https://www.ebodyboarding.com/collectio ... -and-skegs

Re: Need Advice on Build

Unread postPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:53 pm
by Papa Paepo o
zensuni wrote:
TheGrumpyGator wrote:
zensuni wrote:Not sure that a very buoyant board is necessarily the solution.
My narrow plywood finless flat board (neutral flotation) works ok in conditions that seems similar to those you described:
https://youtu.be/EVWwCZgZnzc
I noticed that a long narrow flat board works better in small closeouts, no side slipping issues that I may have when I use my large delta shape board.


Those conditions are similar, a little cleaner than ours. Maybe the problem with my flat (neutrally buoyant) board is length. Looking at your video, the board looks much longer and narrower. Mine is 44" x 20".





Yes indeed, my board is longer and narrower, 47,2" x 15,7", the thickness is 0,4" (poplar plywood).
This shape makes waves catching easier and it holds well, although it doesn't have skegs.
I have made some tests on wider boards with similar lenght, but side slipping was an issue, especially in those small close out conditions.
I was inspired by the traditionnal english bellyboard, check out this video:
https://youtu.be/WYftssG9ucs
Regarding being hit by the board, it happened to me when I used a bodyboard leash, now I use a regular surf leash or no leash at all and I no longer have these issues.
Last thing, regarding the take off, you need to postion yourself way back, you swim pushing the board forward to be as flat as possible, when the wave catches you then you jump on the board. And you need powerfull swim fins.



When performing a take off, ensuring your kicking in the water and not surface kick. You'll need the thrust to push forward, position your body positions left or right as you slide your board under you, you will quickly gain speed. Honestly, I'm 238lbs and I float on all of my wood boards. I've got riders who's 250lbs. and up and they all float with my wood boards that is 3/8" thick. I've been using my "SurfnFin" over 30 plus years. You want a fin that feel comfortable that wont give you blisters.