MyPaipoBoards Forums

good morning, I'm super happy with the paipo de horns in big waves is going very well. I've tried it in waves of 1.5m, it seems that it sails the train tracks, happy
 
Now I'm thinking of something with more spin, I follow the same path as a surfboard.

in this design I have only barred the tail, removing the horns. I have put 4 fins, but following the way that the surfboard 2 lateral and 2 central

What do you think about this position of fins?

general rule is on wide tails you would want your fins placed closed to the rail.

The idea of centering the rear ends is to work without the turbulence generated by the front ends, so they get the maximum performance

Has someone mounted fins like that? How did it work?

As a trailer, I might just go with a single small fin instead of two. Maybe even a knubster type.

a very interesting idea, I'm going to study it seriously. 2 + 1 type mark richards

I've been looking at bodyboard photos, for my taste the most successful version in 2 or 4 fins.

I have modified the template. adjustments in the tail. a little narrower, I want a big push from the waves worse if something more turn goes from 95 to 92.5%

I think it starts to have good shape

I suggest you study McKee's Quatro Formula. It's not just about fin placement, but individual fin template as well. He lays it all out.

http://www.mckeesurf.com/?page_id=267

for the position of the keels I followed the tables that mckee provides, adapted a bit to the paipo.

I still need to define the toe in del fins but surely the front ones are 1/8 and the rear ones parallel

not being what you mean, the kind of fins to ride? Is this graphic? http://www.mckeesurf.com/wp/wp-content/ ... ble_02.png

1/8" front and 0" rear favors speed over turning.
1/4" front and 1/8" rear favors turning over speed.
But also...
Larger fin front and smaller fin rear favors drive
Larger fin rear and smaller fin front more pivot-y turns.

Nomas, within the specs you mention above is there much comment on fin (skeg) plan shape?

Short answer is yes, but McKee goes into great detail regarding the various FCS templates and How they function in quad set ups.

There's almost too much information on fin template combinations. McKee uses the FCS fin nomenclature to help identify potential quad fin sets. Its a little tricky at first, but once you realize x3 fins are small, x5 fins are medium and x7 fins are large it's a bit easier to understand. So, M5 fins and G5 fins are the same template. in different material composition. GX or GS fins are longboard side bites. He also discusses fins with different foils, e.g asymmetric flat, 80/20, 60/40, and when to use symmetric 50/50 center fins. Many third party fin makers (True Ames, Shaper Australia to name two) use some variation of the FCS nomenclature to identify their "2-tab" fin-base fins, so the rider is not restricted to just FCS branded fins. His Quadra Formula is pretty specific, although he has tables for shortboards, longboards and kneeboards. Because unlike Futures, which require a shallow 1/2" rear fin box to accommodate Future quad fin sets instead of the Future standard 3/4" box, FCS and other "2-tab" fins can be taken from any tri-fin set or LB side bite set, new or used. (just stay away from FCS II) Additionally, FCS Fusion fin boxes can be ordered in 0-deg, 5-deg and 9-deg cant setting. All in all, plenty of ways to customize and dial-in your ride.

I have been making tables for 3 years, all with fcs fusion, I do not like neither future nor fcs2. I have many fins from my surfboards, I like to do tests, that's why I have no problems

Surfboards I have quite clear the position of the keels, in normal boards, I have done quite rare things with doubts, but in general, I have no problems

is costing me, accept the concepts of board a paipo, I always have the feeling that I need longer measures to put the ideas I have, to design them I feel shrunken and there are doubts

Today in waves that close with force I have had a very strong blow against the horned paipo, I've done enough damage, I'm fine.

has made me rethink the design and make this paipo without fins, I'm thinking of a smooth design but with channels that allow me to run the paced without slipping

asier esnal wrote:Today in waves that close with force I have had a very strong blow against the horned paipo, I've done enough damage, I'm fine.

has made me rethink the design and make this paipo without fins, I'm thinking of a smooth design but with channels that allow me to run the paced without slipping

Yes, if what you are saying means something like powerful shore break then hard boards, fins and point tails (horns) can put one at risk.

The term for the tail shape as "horns" keeps throwing me for a loop, however, because of one paipo rider who uses horns as handles for his boards. See the interview here:
https://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/Pa ... 0813.shtml

asier esnal wrote:Today in waves that close with force I have had a very strong blow against the horned paipo, I've done enough damage, I'm fine.

has made me rethink the design and make this paipo without fins, I'm thinking of a smooth design but with channels that allow me to run the paced without slipping

Remember water likes to stick to a rounded surface and break from a hard edge so you dont want hard channels.

My finless design has enough hold for a hard bottom turn on a 10ft wave you are welcome to the CNC cut file if you would like to look at it.

rodndtube thank you very much for the information, the work of Paul Witzig is very curious, I really liked it and I had a lot of fun, it has to be a great person, with a very restless head

  krusher74 I'm going to do all rounded edges, I do not want hard songs, I'll look for a good grip on the waves, the type of turn is what worries me the least, the winter waves are going to be very hard, surf with very little flow

I already have the paipo carved in eps, these photos are not of the finished process. but it is already complete. has a clear influence of the bodyboard vs QuadConcave


Now I have to laminate fiberglass.

  but I have left the eps with a very good flex and I'm sorry to have to put resin and fabric so that it stays like a hard stone, with hardly any flex and when I hit my head it hurts me

Is there any other alternative to fiberglass? give a latex cover, or some other sealant to avoid deriving that flex and that does not have water? Could you laminate only one face and give an insulating product? This is the first time that I consider alternatives

I have found a product called polyurea, but it has been impossible for me to buy in small quantities. any ideas? There has to be something alternative to the typical products of surfboards

forgive for the cleanliness of the room, these days is being crazy, I have not finished this period and I already have 2 surfboards to do, apart from my work and family, I do not have almost time to enter the water

if you are curious about the closet you see in the photo is for curing uv polyester, made with the lamps of a solarium

I have applied white glue to the paipo, pva, so I can now laminate with uv polyester without the eps falling out, careful to seal, a pore will ruin all the work of shape. this is a trick of the 70s

but I still do not want to give polyester or fiberglass

How can I paste this to the paipo? I've seen bodyboard videos that apply heat, but those plates have a tail already prepared to just heat and paste? the eps I do not think it can hold so much heat

it's happening to me, laminate fiber l apart from below and paste some of this up

PE polyethylene is compatible with polyester?


Decks
You guessed correctly! The deck is the material on a bodyboard that you lie on. The usual configuration for deck material is 8lb (density per inch) PE (polyethylene). PE decks are soft and flexible just like PE Cores but, similarly, after time they’re unable to find their original shape. Indentations and creases in areas under pressure also develop quickly in PE decks.

Manufacturers are looking at ways to stop this happening but some riders prefer their boards a little warn in, with elbow divots through continued use and mellow deck creases.

The alternative to a PE deck is known as crosslink, a thinner 6lb cell structure that absorbs less water whilst being more durable but it tends to be far stiffer. This is often used on boards in the £100 and under price bracket as it’s slightly cheaper to produce. If you purchase one of these numbers be aware it requires more wax for traction, this is due to its vinyl feel and touch. The type of deck you will get really comes down to budget.