MyPaipoBoards Forums

paipo finished and ready to enter the water

It will be interesting to hear your experience. I rode this board a few times.
It was fun on fuller, down the line waves, but it didn't hold an edge in a tube as well as my current board. The board is a lot thicker than it looks - about 3".

bgreen wrote:It will be interesting to hear your experience. I rode this board a few times.

Garrett2.jpg

Garrett5.jpg

It was fun on fuller, down the line waves, but it didn't hold an edge in a tube as well as my current board. The board is a lot thicker than it looks - about 3".

That's an extreme one!

I see a lot of boards with a big deck scoop for the person to lie centrally in, I think it misunderstood a lot that to hold the rail/edge on a bodyboard/finless paipo you really get your weight over the rail as much as possible, I have my hip/elbow right over on the rail when riding, I think these deck scoop that pushes riders into a more central riding position without the help of fins really hinder rail traction

krusher74: that is a comment that has surprised me, I have never taken into account: I have my hip / elbow right over on the rail when riding
for this in the design I think about the shape of the channels that do the grip function.

a friend will give me a bodyboard in good condition, I will enter, for a while, with the in the water and rethink the designs based on your recommendation

I've been using this paipo for a few days. I can say that I am not very comfortable with him. the channels seem not to make too much effect, I've had a few unexpected skids. It has too much volume in the nose, makes it float a lot in this part and I have trouble reading and it does not go parallel to the water, I do not know if it is because of the nose but it bounces a lot, I catch a wave and I give more jumps than a frog surrounded of mosquitoes. I'm really not liking

possible improvements?

1) the channels in a distance as short as a paipo almost do not execute, unless they are too exacted what brakes the whole, better to take up the idea of ​​ends

2) thinner rails, I've done a lot of recess in the center to mold the body, and as I have to put the foam somewhere move it to the sides, SheeeeIIIIItttttt, better part gives more flat and finer rails

3) outline? puf in this I do not have anything clear and I need your advice for the next model I'm considering making some design type to those of nomastomas, http://mypaipoboards.org/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=775 first picture paipo medium

There have been several evolutions in the board since the first description (e.g., the thread title still says quad fins). Please provided updated specifications including nose and tail rockers.

true, forgive. At first, the idea was to make a paipo with 4 keels, but when trying an earlier design I decided not to put ends and make channels, following the second plane that collects, I also put it here below

I do not have planes of nose and tail rockers. for the first paipo I cut 2 tables with stringer shape and are the ones I use to be born the roquer, since I found it from the beginning a very successful way, I use the technique of cutting by hot wire for eps

in the photo below you can see the paipo roker, tail plane and 2.7 in the nose that gives me a good speed but I have not had a chance to nail in the nose. removing a model that I did the rest have been relatively short, compared to the ones that you do

I'm not a shaper, although here's my theory: the rails are very tick and rounded, so it makes it difficult to bite the wave face. Also, the board is wide but not that long, so you don't have much rail surface to bite the wave.
Regarding the chop, the tickness and the buyancy don't help either. A thin, not buoyant board works better in the chop, cause it just pierces it instead of rebounding on it, resulting in more water projections in your face but a less bumpy ride.

A little convex/roundness, under nose can also go a long ways towards smoothing chop. I too thought rails looked a bit thick. OK for very small, weak waves but would indeed tend to slide out in any juice or steep

The way I see it, the typical prone board outline coupled with a relatively flat bottom is a very efficient planing surface. Volume (typically derived through adjustments in thickness) needs to be modulated to match wave size and power, and rider weight. Bottom contours, fins, deck contours, rail shape, etc should not be considered until the basic outline and volume has been determined. I always go back to the tried and true foam body board as the baseline. They are readily available. Ride one in the waves conditions you prefer, and decide what you like and/or don't like about the ride. Then, design a shape that has the features you believe will enhance the ride. Just don't make too many changes at once. My G5 design didn't just appear out of thin air. It was the end result of five major design changes, with multiple design "tweaks" in between, over the course of 10yrs. It requires patience and time in the water to develop a functional surfcraft. Take your time, understand how surfcraft function, always "know" why a design feature works, or strive to understand why it doesn't, be methodical in your approach (Larry Goddard-esque).

I'm a bit lost with all the ideas. I think Nomastomas has some sound advice. What is the design that you think works best, so far?