fin box in paulownia 18mm? and other ideas, alloy fins
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- Big Wave Charger
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fin box in paulownia 18mm? and other ideas, alloy fins
I want to make a paipo with a longboard keel, I can only buy 18mm boards. is a very good measure for the fcs keels, they are 15 deep.
but I can not put a box for longboard keels, it is deeper crosses from side to side. I have thought to stick a ribbon on the bottom so I have 15 + 15 = 30 that if the keel support comes in
I do not like the idea, I'm stuck, I want to be able to move forward and back, try different keels ...
some idea, it's getting dry from thinking so much
I do not feel like working with foam again, I liked wood a lot
es
quiero hacer un paipo con un quillas de longboard, solo puedo comprar tablas de 18mm. es una medida muy buena para las quillas de fcs, son de 15 de profundidad.
pero no puedo poner un cajetín para quillas de longboard, es mas profundo atraviesa de lado a lado. se me ha ocurrido pegar por la parte de abajo un listón asi tengo 15+15= 30 que si entra el soporte de quilla
no me gusta la idea, estoy atascado, quiero que se pueda desplazar alante y atras, probar diferentes quillas...
alguna idea, se esta quedando la cabeza seca de tanto pensar
no me apetece trabajar de nuevo con foam,,, me ha gustado muchísimo la madera
but I can not put a box for longboard keels, it is deeper crosses from side to side. I have thought to stick a ribbon on the bottom so I have 15 + 15 = 30 that if the keel support comes in
I do not like the idea, I'm stuck, I want to be able to move forward and back, try different keels ...
some idea, it's getting dry from thinking so much
I do not feel like working with foam again, I liked wood a lot
es
quiero hacer un paipo con un quillas de longboard, solo puedo comprar tablas de 18mm. es una medida muy buena para las quillas de fcs, son de 15 de profundidad.
pero no puedo poner un cajetín para quillas de longboard, es mas profundo atraviesa de lado a lado. se me ha ocurrido pegar por la parte de abajo un listón asi tengo 15+15= 30 que si entra el soporte de quilla
no me gusta la idea, estoy atascado, quiero que se pueda desplazar alante y atras, probar diferentes quillas...
alguna idea, se esta quedando la cabeza seca de tanto pensar
no me apetece trabajar de nuevo con foam,,, me ha gustado muchísimo la madera
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Last edited by asier esnal on Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
This is a simple simulation of how a box of longboard fin box would look on an 18mm table. for now I have not come up with a better solution
es
esta es una simulación, sencilla de como quedaría una caja de longboard fin box en una tabla de 18mm. por ahora no se me ha ocurrido una mejor solución
es
esta es una simulación, sencilla de como quedaría una caja de longboard fin box en una tabla de 18mm. por ahora no se me ha ocurrido una mejor solución
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
This is a more detailed design. I love designing in 3d before doing things in real, I do not finish liking that added, I prefer a flat base
es
esto es un diseño más detallado. me encanta diseñar en 3d antes de hacer las cosas en real, no me termina de gustar ese añadido, prefiero una base plana
es
esto es un diseño más detallado. me encanta diseñar en 3d antes de hacer las cosas en real, no me termina de gustar ese añadido, prefiero una base plana
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Last edited by asier esnal on Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
another solution is to remove it from the top, like this spoon, but I do not know if it will hurt me when paddling and catching waves have a minimum depth of 28mm
28-18mm board: 10mm that comes out on top, put a 10mm table will bring a lot of weight
es
otra solución es sacarlo por la parte de arriba, como este spoon, pero no se si me hara daño a la hora de remar y coger olas tienen una profundidad mínima de 28mm
28-18mm de tablero: 10mm que sobresale por la parte de arriba, meter un tabla de 10mm aportara mucho peso
http://pcprogress.blogspot.com/2010/02/ ... plete.html fotos interesantes
28-18mm board: 10mm that comes out on top, put a 10mm table will bring a lot of weight
es
otra solución es sacarlo por la parte de arriba, como este spoon, pero no se si me hara daño a la hora de remar y coger olas tienen una profundidad mínima de 28mm
28-18mm de tablero: 10mm que sobresale por la parte de arriba, meter un tabla de 10mm aportara mucho peso
http://pcprogress.blogspot.com/2010/02/ ... plete.html fotos interesantes
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
Unfortunately, board is long gone and I did not save photos of how I built the fin. But Dale Solomonson explained to me over the phone how to do this. Not sure if this will work with wood board but it was great on fiberglass flexspoon. You will need to build your own fin or at least add thick faring to base of fin you already have. The wide faring will take up and spread the lateral stress that the fin puts on the board. So here goes:
All holes will be for #8 bolts
Drill a line of holes (1/2-3/4 inch diameter) along midline of board in the area where you will want your fin to sit. No closer together than about 1/2 inch so the board stays strong.
Then tap holes to match vertically into bottom of fin. The holes in the fin can be much closer together since minimal stress there and that way you can get a lot finer adjustment. Maybe 1/8 inch apart
Make a fiberglass plate a bit longer than distance between front and rear holes in board, about 1 or 1 1/2 inches wide, and maybe 1/8 inch thick. Laminate it on a surface that will put a slight, lengthwise curve in it so that it will act as a tension on the bolts, helping them stay in place and also it will distribute the pressure of the bolt heads on the deck so they don't tear through the wood. Drill holes in it to match those in bottom of fin.
Next put down wide sheet of waxed paper, aluminum foil, or some sort of "mold release" spray on bottom of board. Attach fin by screwing through from deck using the bolts and tension plate.
Now you can build up your faring at base of fin using fiberglass rope or chopped glass and resin. When it is well set, remove from board and trim and sand smooth. Also, hand sand slight concave into bottom surface of fin and faring so it will sit nice and flush to bottom of board.
If you can decipher all that and give it a try, let us know how it goes. Greenough apparently used that method on some of his edge boards.
All holes will be for #8 bolts
Drill a line of holes (1/2-3/4 inch diameter) along midline of board in the area where you will want your fin to sit. No closer together than about 1/2 inch so the board stays strong.
Then tap holes to match vertically into bottom of fin. The holes in the fin can be much closer together since minimal stress there and that way you can get a lot finer adjustment. Maybe 1/8 inch apart
Make a fiberglass plate a bit longer than distance between front and rear holes in board, about 1 or 1 1/2 inches wide, and maybe 1/8 inch thick. Laminate it on a surface that will put a slight, lengthwise curve in it so that it will act as a tension on the bolts, helping them stay in place and also it will distribute the pressure of the bolt heads on the deck so they don't tear through the wood. Drill holes in it to match those in bottom of fin.
Next put down wide sheet of waxed paper, aluminum foil, or some sort of "mold release" spray on bottom of board. Attach fin by screwing through from deck using the bolts and tension plate.
Now you can build up your faring at base of fin using fiberglass rope or chopped glass and resin. When it is well set, remove from board and trim and sand smooth. Also, hand sand slight concave into bottom surface of fin and faring so it will sit nice and flush to bottom of board.
If you can decipher all that and give it a try, let us know how it goes. Greenough apparently used that method on some of his edge boards.
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
I have not found pictures about Dale Solomonson, a sadness, but with your description I have started to study seriously
and I had a great result thanks to the photos of Richard Palmer's, Greenough and more work and his kneeboard spoon. It's just what you describe, a wide flat base and overhead drills to hold
Here I leave a few links
Now I have to think how to do to not destroy this peculiar keel, there are almost no second hand and I do not want to modify it too much FCS 3D Red Tip Large PC End
Greenough, with this board I have started all the research http://history.museumofsurf.com/1-99-1-greenough-spoon/
http://kingwakaskorner.blogspot.com/201 ... shell.html
http://indianakneeriders.blogspot.com/2 ... eorge.html
http://kingwakaskorner.blogspot.com/2016/06/
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tM3-u-sFftQ/UiwTY ... 25255D.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6217HVAGimI/UiwTi ... 25255D.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7U2EUnSEHqs/UiwTo ... 25255D.jpg
es
no he encontrado fotos sobre Dale Solomonson, un apena, pero con tu descripción me he puesto a estudiar seriamente
y he tenido un gran resultado gracias a las fotos del trabajo de Richard Palmer y otros y sus kneeboard spoon. es justo lo que describes, una base plana ancha y taladros de arriba para sujetar
aquí os dejo unos cuantos enlaces
ahora tengo que pensar como hacer para no destruir esta quilla tan peculiar , no quedan casi de segunda mano y no la quiero modificar demasiado FCS 3D Red Tip Large PC Fin
and I had a great result thanks to the photos of Richard Palmer's, Greenough and more work and his kneeboard spoon. It's just what you describe, a wide flat base and overhead drills to hold
Here I leave a few links
Now I have to think how to do to not destroy this peculiar keel, there are almost no second hand and I do not want to modify it too much FCS 3D Red Tip Large PC End
Greenough, with this board I have started all the research http://history.museumofsurf.com/1-99-1-greenough-spoon/
http://kingwakaskorner.blogspot.com/201 ... shell.html
http://indianakneeriders.blogspot.com/2 ... eorge.html
http://kingwakaskorner.blogspot.com/2016/06/
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tM3-u-sFftQ/UiwTY ... 25255D.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6217HVAGimI/UiwTi ... 25255D.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7U2EUnSEHqs/UiwTo ... 25255D.jpg
es
no he encontrado fotos sobre Dale Solomonson, un apena, pero con tu descripción me he puesto a estudiar seriamente
y he tenido un gran resultado gracias a las fotos del trabajo de Richard Palmer y otros y sus kneeboard spoon. es justo lo que describes, una base plana ancha y taladros de arriba para sujetar
aquí os dejo unos cuantos enlaces
ahora tengo que pensar como hacer para no destruir esta quilla tan peculiar , no quedan casi de segunda mano y no la quiero modificar demasiado FCS 3D Red Tip Large PC Fin
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
Can't seem to post the drawings but these will take you to them. Just found buried in my computer. Dale emailed me these at the time, years ago, summer of 2005
http://s898.photobucket.com/user/Geoffr ... sort=3&o=1
http://s898.photobucket.com/user/Geoffr ... sort=3&o=0
http://s898.photobucket.com/user/Geoffr ... sort=3&o=1
http://s898.photobucket.com/user/Geoffr ... sort=3&o=0
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
A rich source of information: https://www.swaylocks.com/forum/general-discussion
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Re: longboard fin box in paulownia 18mm?
I have been standing for a few months, without building anything, I needed to rest and enjoy the waves with my current paipos
I discard the idea of a finbox for the paipo, but I have seen an idea of Brett Curtis that has inspired me, to design a twinzer in aluminum, I do not know the thickness, 5mm +/-
This will go with 4 screws, so it is very easy to change the position of the keels, just need to make new drills
the middle plate of the keels, gives a very good base and rigidity but I do not know if the paipo slows down a lot
he estado unos meses parado, sin construir nada, necesitaba descanso y disfrutar de las olas con mis paipos actuales
descarto la idea de un finbox para el paipo, pero he visto una idea de Brett Curtis que me ha inspirado, para diseñar un twinzer en aluminio, no se el espesor, 5mm +/-
esto ira con 4 tornillos, asi es muy fácil cambiar la posición de las quillas, solo hace falta hacer nuevos taladros
la chapa del medio de las quillas, le da una muy buena base y rigidez pero no se si frena mucho el paipo
I discard the idea of a finbox for the paipo, but I have seen an idea of Brett Curtis that has inspired me, to design a twinzer in aluminum, I do not know the thickness, 5mm +/-
This will go with 4 screws, so it is very easy to change the position of the keels, just need to make new drills
the middle plate of the keels, gives a very good base and rigidity but I do not know if the paipo slows down a lot
he estado unos meses parado, sin construir nada, necesitaba descanso y disfrutar de las olas con mis paipos actuales
descarto la idea de un finbox para el paipo, pero he visto una idea de Brett Curtis que me ha inspirado, para diseñar un twinzer en aluminio, no se el espesor, 5mm +/-
esto ira con 4 tornillos, asi es muy fácil cambiar la posición de las quillas, solo hace falta hacer nuevos taladros
la chapa del medio de las quillas, le da una muy buena base y rigidez pero no se si frena mucho el paipo
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