SDF No3 paulownia wood board

[krusher74]

Hi, So I have started shaping my first wood paipo, its going to be a hollow paulownia construction. This will be my 3RD SDF board in the same design style.

So because the wood was going to contaminate my friends surfboard shaping room, i'm at homen alone shaping my first board. So far it has been very interesting and a sttep learning curve as i hve never sued a planer before

The paulownia was sourced from a grower in portugal, and cost about $140

This is as far as i have got so far. the temporary glues keep breaking so keep having to wait 24hrs every time i have to glue ti back together again!

more pics on post below.

[krusher74]

I'm doing all the shaping so far with a electric planer, pretty hard to make it symmetrical but trying!

[krusher74]

In the end it will be chambered and fully glued, does anybody have glue opinions I currently have "weather proof" PVA which says not suitable for continuous water submersion

So I need a good water proof PVA? the board will be getting a light 4oz glass job.

[bgreen]

Hello Krusher,

Too late now, but pawlonia isn't very hard so a handplane isn't so difficult to use and the neighbours are less likely to complain.

These are a few of glue threads on Swaylocks:

http://www.swaylocks.com/groups/q-water ... laia-blank
http://www.swaylocks.com/groups/titebond3-vs-epoxy-hws
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/hws-guy ... l-question


The board is looking good.

Bob

[Atlantasurfer]

This looks rad! Do you plan to put in fin boxes?

Be sure and include some chambering pics. I have been contemplating building a chambered paipo. It would be nice to get the down low from another first timer.

[krusher74]

I did think paulownia would be softer that this as you say, but 40 grit sand paper on a block makes very slow progress shaping it, would be here forever with a hand plane!

I have several hours in it so far, first planing the rocker,the some V, then doing the concave, then working all the bell into the nose.

I gonna rough shape the deck next, then it should be 95% shaped, will then chamber it , full glue it and finish shaping with it solidly glued.

will check out the glue link now, thanks

I had hoped it would be more like shaping balsa

[krusher74]

This looks rad! Do you plan to put in fin boxes?

Be sure and include some chambering pics. I have been contemplating building a chambered paipo. It would be nice to get the down low from another first timer.

No fin boxes, I don't do fins. With the chine rail and concave to V the board has all the hold I need coming from a bodyboard background (and is faster). I think most of the info on that is in my first board thread http://mypaipoboards.org/forum3/viewtop ... &hilit=sdf

This guys video is where I am getting most of my info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ps0djkf ... jNG7Yia5Og

[1handclapping]

Looking good might be worth having a look at this site Sergio has good knowledge on chambering and is willing to share advice.
He was in Oz last year and I had a good look at his boards. This guy is passionate about wooden boards.
info@flamasurf.com
http://pescadosypistolas.blogspot.com.au/
Best of luck with your board.

[jbw4600]

I would use epoxy for your final glue up. You don't need to glass it. You could just varnish it or seal with epoxy and then varnish over it. Or you could just use Tongue oil. But I have never used tongue oil. I have heard that you need to keep re-applying it later after time in the water.

[krusher74]

I would use epoxy for your final glue up. You don't need to glass it. You could just varnish it or seal with epoxy and then varnish over it. Or you could just use Tongue oil. But I have never used tongue oil. I have heard that you need to keep re-applying it later after time in the water.

I was worried about something like epoxy as a sealer coat crazing and cracking. will look lnto it further though.

dont want to got just oil as i want it well sealed, I surf a lot and am board abusive so i would not expect it to not get water logged if that was all i used does to my lack of care

I surf over a lot of rock reefs and seem to every surf catch m board on the way in or out.

[bgreen]

Krusher,

Regarding planes - a decent sized sharp handplane can remove volume easily enough.. The concave would be a little trickier.

Regarding sealants, the oil being referred to is tung oil: http://tungoil.co.uk/ ; http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/tung-oil etc

It does need reapplication over time, one advantage. On one of my boards it has a varnish type finish.

If regular dings are a problem epoxy is probably the go.

Bob

[krusher74]

Cool, thinking about oils, epoxy and glassing while I work!

Started planing on the deck tonight, got that pretty close and also cut the basic swallow tail shape

Once I have curved over the top of the tail into the deck (have a few rasps in the post)I will split it and start to chamber the pieces, then i can glue it fully and the do the final shaping

Here are a few pics of the concave/V the belly in the nose and the deck roll, I was trying to copy my old board 100% but things diverged so I have done a little experimenting

Its looks a little wonky in the pics hope that just the pics and shadows

[Pes78]

That looks pretty good. How thick is the wood?

[krusher74]

That looks pretty good. How thick is the wood?

The planks are 3" by 1 1/4" by 4ft 18 of them

[GeoffreyLevens]

The planks are 3" by 1 1/4" by 4ft 18 of them

So this is thinner and thinner rails than your foam versions?

[jbw4600]

On my last wood Paulowina wood board I first sealed it with 2 coats epoxy and then I varnished it. The first coat of epoxy was pretty much absorbed into the wood. The second coat of epoxy remained more on the surface and looked like varnish. I put varnish to give the epoxy some UV protection. So it is pretty thin. And there is no possibility of the epoxy crazing or cracking. It is completely sealed. If I bang it, it will dent link varnished wood might dent.

The next time I make a paulowina wood board I will use just coat of epoxy and then varinish it with several layers.

[krusher74]

The planks are 3" by 1 1/4" by 4ft 18 of them

So this is thinner and thinner rails than your foam versions?

The 3" was the thickness top to bottom, built up blank was 4ftby 23" by 3" so the shaped board is just as thick in the rail etc as my OG board.

[krusher74]

On my last wood Paulowina wood board I first sealed it with 2 coats epoxy and then I varnished it. The first coat of epoxy was pretty much absorbed into the wood. The second coat of epoxy remained more on the surface and looked like varnish. I put varnish to give the epoxy some UV protection. So it is pretty thin. And there is no possibility of the epoxy crazing or cracking. It is completely sealed. If I bang it, it will dent link varnished wood might dent.

The next time I make a paulowina wood board I will use just coat of epoxy and then varinish it with several layers.

I have been looking at the super sap bio resin http://www.pecepoxy.co.uk/shop/epoxy/ seem very tough/ flexible and elastic.

Did you do epoxy as a sealer and then varnish for any other reasons than UV protection , cost? as the super sap is UV stable.

Cant work out if there is any reason to fibreglass laminate the board? maybe just a few coats of super sap will do.

[krusher74]

During my rambles round the tinterwebs today I found a picture from Goddard Surfboards, seems they have had a similar design to mine on the go for 20 years in a stand-up fish

[CHRISPI]

What is Paulowina wood, is it the same as Sisal, how heavy is the finished board ?