i had long forgotten about her as a rider, and was just using her as yard art. anyway, after years, i decided to take her out yesterday in 3-4 o-side and BAM! the stoke was back on. i havent surfed much this year, but i finally got in the water. nervous about the paddle out in shore dump after months of laziness, i had forgotten the ease of paddling out (soooo easy to duck dive under close outs on plywood) i was soon on my way back to having just pure fun. i had forgotten how easy it was to paddle out, catch waves, do cut backs and just sit in the barrel sooo deep on such smallish waves.
the board had been sitting out for so long that it quickly waterlogged, but that made it even more fun. it's hard to explain why, but the w.l. added a heavy flex that felt very mattish to me, only mo beddah. im glad i made the hasty decision to paddle out with the jalama bomba, she brought back some fun memories and rekindled a stoke for simple ply that i had long forgotten. i wont be riding foam anytime soon.
Tim
