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| MALIBU FROM THE FIRST SOUTH SWELL OF 2003 |
| Malibu, roughly 10:00 a.m., as the first south swell of 2003 started to wane. I don't remember what particular day this was. I was disoriented by the sight of Malibu Creek flowing right into First Point, something which I hadn't managed to see since I was a kid in 1969 (I think). The photo above is pretty disorienting as well. |
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| Not the same guy. It's a cliche now, having been used in this manner for so many decades, but it's still true: one wave like this at Malibu can spice up a whole year of surfing. It wasn't even very good. |
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