SDF No3 paulownia wood board

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krusher74
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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Thu Feb 26, 2015 3:06 pm

CHRISPI wrote:What is Paulowina wood, is it the same as Sisal, how heavy is the finished board ?
Paulowina is a tree, so not like sisal fibre at all.

It fast growing and resistant to water so is good for boards. You can cut them down to the ground and they jut grow back as a single trunk again! :o

my foam and fiberglass board is 7lbs, and so far my paulowina board is 14lbs but it has yet to be chambered or sealed, i'm guessing 8 to 10lbs finished. :?

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by jbw4600 » Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:49 pm

I varnished over the epoxy, because I used West System epoxy. It is a boat epoxy and they said it didn't have any UV protection. I used Entropy super sap on my last two foam boards (with fiberglass) and it worked great. Supposedly it and other epoxies like Resin Research have are more UV resistant. Years ago I used to used a penetrating epoxy to seal wood on my sailboat. I have heard that you can thin epoxy so it will saturate better.

What kind of glue did you use to do your temporary glue up? Did use use little dabs or what?

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by GeoffreyLevens » Fri Feb 27, 2015 7:02 pm

jbw4600 wrote:I have heard that you can thin epoxy so it will saturate better.
Lot of info on that on Swaylocks. If I remember correctly, you can only dilute a max amount that is not much, and you use pure isopropyl alcohol (IPA) Don't quote me though ;)

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sat Feb 28, 2015 1:45 pm

jbw4600 wrote:I varnished over the epoxy, because I used West System epoxy. It is a boat epoxy and they said it didn't have any UV protection. I used Entropy super sap on my last two foam boards (with fiberglass) and it worked great. Supposedly it and other epoxies like Resin Research have are more UV resistant. Years ago I used to used a penetrating epoxy to seal wood on my sailboat. I have heard that you can thin epoxy so it will saturate better.

What kind of glue did you use to do your temporary glue up? Did use use little dabs or what?

I used 3 dabs of basic PVA per plank. :?

I think i am going to give the 100/1000 super sap a try. :D

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:21 am

Got the first central piece chambered. drilled holes in the corners with a flat wood bit and then cut the rest with a jigsaw. The first cross section is 2" as this is there the leash plug will go, apart from the 2 central planks this will then go down to 1" the same as you see at the rear.

I think it might end up being lighter than I guessed 8-)
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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by CHRISPI » Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:04 pm

It is a very elegant way to build board’s nice use of wood.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:38 pm

CHRISPI wrote:It is a very elegant way to build board’s nice use of wood.

I guess its a bit of a waste of timber though as by the time i'm finished i might have 20% of the wood left. :oops:

I like the HWS way they do things with the central spine kinda like a airplane wing, but thats a bit beyond my wood working skills
Last edited by krusher74 on Sat Mar 07, 2015 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by GeoffreyLevens » Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:23 pm

I have very limited "exposure" but from what I have seen HWS never seem to have the refined shape possible with what you are doing, more crude and boxy. Could be wrong but looks that way from photos I have seen and I have a lot of shaped then hollowed out made from balsa and they are pretty sweet, shapes like a foam board but in wood.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:31 am

GeoffreyLevens wrote:I have very limited "exposure" but from what I have seen HWS never seem to have the refined shape possible with what you are doing, more crude and boxy. Could be wrong but looks that way from photos I have seen and I have a lot of shaped then hollowed out made from balsa and they are pretty sweet, shapes like a foam board but in wood.
Yes I don't think you could get nose belly and concave to V very easy on a HWS, unless you are super skilled. :?

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by matt23 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:02 am

Good looking board. Have you sealed it yet? Ive made about ten paulownia boards and a couple for mates. Ive always sealed them with tung oil. I start with a very diluted mix with white spirit and apply about 6/7 coats thickening the mix each time until it goes on raw. allowing each to dry before the next coat, it builds up nicely and seals really well. Might only need one coating once a year if that. The paulownia itself wont let any water in.

What glue will you be using, on the final glueing?

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by bgreen » Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:31 am

Krusher,

Assuming the board is around 48", how long are those two rear chambers? 10-12" are the longest I've read about. How thick is the board above and below the chambers? You've obviously got the hang of wood-working pretty quickly. I picked up a fibreglass board yesterday that has some similarities with your board, though the concave won't be as deep and it is thinner.

With the hollow boards, the rail line often don't seem to have a smooth curve.

Matt,

Does the final coast of the tung oil have a sort of gellish (though smooth) quality? On most of my boards with tung oil the oil is absorbed and after a few surfs the oil coating is less noticeable, whereas on one boat there is a noticeable coating feel to it.

Bob

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by matt23 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 9:35 am

Bob

Yeah the oils built up so its has a sort of plasticy finish. You have to build up the layers otherwise it doesnt get the effect. Ive found oiling outside in the hot summer sun best.The instructions say to wipe away any excess after 30 mins, Ive found an hour+ to be about right. The first 2/3 thinned coats tend to soak in, then as you got thicker (oil/white spirit) it sits on the wood. You wipe the excess off,each time you reapply a thin layer builds.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 4:17 pm

matt23 wrote:Good looking board. Have you sealed it yet? Ive made about ten paulownia boards and a couple for mates. Ive always sealed them with tung oil. I start with a very diluted mix with white spirit and apply about 6/7 coats thickening the mix each time until it goes on raw. allowing each to dry before the next coat, it builds up nicely and seals really well. Might only need one coating once a year if that. The paulownia itself wont let any water in.

What glue will you be using, on the final glueing?
I'm using tightbond 3 glue.

i'm having trouble feeling just oil with be durable enough for me :?

I think i am going to seal and hot coat the board with supersap epoxy as my boards get a hard life.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sat Mar 07, 2015 1:30 pm

Ok so getting further on with the project, have been chambering the sections which take about 45mins a piece. :(

I was a bit worried about my lack of clamps and trying to glue back together to many sections at once so i am doing it in stages.

Chambered the 6 center pieces and glued them up. next done 3 more either side as sections 2 and 3. leaving 3 more outer strips on the left and right outside, the outer 2 are to small to chamber so will only have to do one of each side of that section.

then will glue the up as a 3/6/3 then finally a 3/363/3 if that makes sence :?

The chambering has taken more weight out than i though, weigh the center 6 section and one of the 3's and it only came to 3.5lbs so i;m guessing a 7 to 9lbs :D

I guess you could also use a rasp, to make all the inside even to make it even lighter, but i dont think it worth the extra work.

I am considering marine varnishing the inside before it goes together as a sealer, any opinions on that?
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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sat Mar 07, 2015 3:11 pm

bgreen wrote:Krusher,

Assuming the board is around 48", how long are those two rear chambers? 10-12" are the longest I've read about. How thick is the board above and below the chambers? You've obviously got the hang of wood-working pretty quickly. I picked up a fibreglass board yesterday that has some similarities with your board, though the concave won't be as deep and it is thinner.
Bob
The board is 43/44" (do you measure to the centre of a swallow tail :? ? )

The chambers are middle 15.5" and rear 15"

This was all fudging and guess work, the front strengthening rib runs across where i have my leash plug 10" back from the nose, I then just put another half way back in what was left, I guess I could have done 3 voids of 10" but i wanted to try for a bit of flex in the board, hopefully it will not make it weak! :(

The top skin is 8mm (5/16th) and the bottom 6mm (1/4') but as the jigsaw cuts straight and the board is domed/concave many edge side were thicker.

Got any pics of that new board you picked up? 8-)

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by rodndtube » Sun Mar 08, 2015 2:20 pm

Here is a good reference guide for measurements:
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/00000000s.html

The simple answer is draw a line between the two points of the swallow tail and measure from the line to the nose.
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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by krusher74 » Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:53 pm

rodndtube wrote:Here is a good reference guide for measurements:
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/00000000s.html

The simple answer is draw a line between the two points of the swallow tail and measure from the line to the nose.
Ok that makes it 44", (center of the swallow is only 43") :D

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by bgreen » Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:05 am

Krusher,

I'll post the photos after I've ridden the board.

Bob

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by patrickSAWBOARDS » Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:15 am

Hi Keith, finally got on the forum! I reckon you are right to go with the epoxy. True a board does not NEED it BUT surfing winter waves has taken its toll on more than one of my boards. For the sake of longevity go for epoxy. Plus here is one that will put the cat amongst the pigeons. It may be that epoxy is "greener" than oiling a board. How? Well, you only need do it once. How much energy is generated in the application of oils. 1) Creation of little plastic bottle. 2) Factory bottling up oil. 3) Factory driving oil to store. 3) Customer driving to store to purchase oil. 4) Disposal of oil soaked cloth/similar 5) Repeat every so often.

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Re: SDF No3 paulownia wood board

Unread post by matt23 » Thu Mar 12, 2015 11:28 am

patrickSAWBOARDS wrote:How much energy is generated in the application of oils. 1) Creation of little plastic bottle. 2) Factory bottling up oil. 3) Factory driving oil to store. 3) Customer driving to store to purchase oil. 4) Disposal of oil soaked cloth/similar 5) Repeat every so often (dont really need to).
Im not anti epoxy or any other material,the points you make also apply to any other product including epoxy?

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