Hello there, I have time to kill in front of my computer Today, so I will tell you the story of my yesterday's session.
A Sunday morning in France, in an estuary spot.
It is a 2h drive trip, not sure it is worth it, as always. But, as always when it is wintertime, I've been stuck home by the bad weather for too long, so I'm hungry and I'll take a chance. The tide has the right timing (the spot needs high tide to work, plus I don't like surfing the afternoon), it should be ok.
8:20AM: dawn patrol style, I'm there, ready to go, the winter sun is slowly rising.
Nobody in the water, I will be surfing alone for 40 minutes. The water temperature is 48 °F.
The surf forecast predicted 5 feets waves for this spot. Much less than on exposed spots this day. This spot is in an estuary, so I know the waves are not "mean", kind of filtered, although they tend to be choppy and unpredictable. A lot of closeouts Today, unfortunately.
Although the waves are not big, passing the bar is a pain in the ass Today. The waves being a little dirty, they tend to double, I hate to face an unexpected second wave right after a duck dive.
The surf is not great. The waves size is ok, but they close out too much. The biggest ones close out almost every time, although some little unexpected peaks pop up at times.
Still, I'm having a great time, as always.
After 1h30 of fun, I'm freezing and I exit the water with a big smile on my face.
Of course, I took a gopro attached to a mouth mount, to film it
https://youtu.be/oAUzCS4OiTc